Tumbledown Farm .9 Acres (give or take an acre or two)

HOW TO DO THINGS
Keeping Healthy | Pigeons

Keeping the Pigeons Healthy

The various diseases of the pigeon can in almost every instance be traced to some neglect on the part of the owner. There are, however, some cases which can not be accounted for and which sometimes appear in the best managed lofts; but such cases are not common.

Serious illness can, as a rule, be averted if prompt treatment is given the birds the moment the ailment is discovered. It is delay at this time that often renders the disease serious.

Neglect the Chief Cause

Neglects are costly. For example, the night is damp and chilly and a stiff breeze is stirring. In the hurry to close the lofts for the night, the windows facing the side from which the wind is coming are left open, and those birds roosting nearby are then in contact with a most dangerous draft. It is needless to add that such a neglect will at once invite colds and other kindred ailments.

It must not, however, be inferred that fresh air must be kept out of the loft. On the contrary it is required. Some of the most successful squab raisers have either open windows facing the south, or have muslin tacked over the windows in place of glass. This admits both sunshine and fresh air.

Cleanliness is Necessary

There seems to be a good argument pro and con about cleanliness in the pigeon loft. The "pros" believe that the lofts should have a thorough cleaning every week, pointing to the fact that filth is a disease and a vermin breeder.

The "cons" say that frequent cleaning of the loft is unnecessary, for the reason that pigeon manure is different from hen manure, and does not produce disease and vermin. They further argue that frequent cleaning of the loft does great damage in scaring the breeders.

The writer has had some years of experience in pigeon keeping, and is a firm believer in cleanliness for best results, from both a health and productive standpoint. He regularly cleans out the nest boxes as they are deserted, and every week gathers up the loose manure on the floor. By moving about quietly, the pigeons soon understand that no danger will come to them, and there is consequently no alarm. It is wonderful how easily pigeons are tamed.

A reckless, careless fellow--one who goes pell-mell about the place--is more dangerous than useful, and should never be allowed to enter the lofts. He will keep the stock in constant fear whenever he approaches them. Tame birds are not only attractive but they are productive. They live in happiness and contentment.

Pigeons, like chickens, are naturally hardy. Disease is practically given them by man in unsanitary lofts and surroundings, in damaged foods, in impure water, in poorly constructed houses and in indifferent care. No live stock respond quicker to good care, or more readily show the effects of bad treatment, than pigeons.

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HOW TO DO THINGS
Pigeons | The Loft

Fixtures for the Pigeon Loft

Next to the proper construction of the loft, comes the necessity of having proper loft requisites, and of this list one of the most important is the "bathtubs," if they may be thus styled. These bathtubs, or pans, can be made any size desired, of lumber, lined with zinc or galvanized iron to make them waterproof.

It is not advisable to have them more than four inches in depth.

Pigeons are naturally clean in their habits, and one of their great enjoyments is to bathe. This bathing cleans the feathers of considerable dirt, and also destroys what vermin may be on them. As soon as the birds are through bathing, the tubs must be emptied so as to give the birds no chance to drink any of the water, which is of an oily nature, closely resembling milk.

The Bath

During the summer, bathing should be allowed at least every other day. In winter, however, once a week is sufficient, and then only on bright, clear days. The general practice is to fill the pans just about an hour before noon, and allow them to remain about two hours, which gives ample time for all birds to take advantage of the bath.

Nests

Although in many cases a part of the construction of the house, nests really belong to the list of fixtures. Some pigeon men prefer small boxes tacked to the wall, but this practice is not generally followed, and certainly does not make as presentable an appearance as does the regulation style. Other breeders have the nests built solid, with no cleat in front, so as to be able to scrape out the manure. Others have the front and partitions movable, and still others use a type of nest with movable front and bottom. The latter affords a much better chance for thorough cleaning.

Feed Hoppers

Self-feeding hoppers are advocated by some authorities. In these hoppers sufficient food is supplied for three or four days' feeding, and the birds are allowed to help themselves at will. But this system of feeding is not carried out on the large plants, the argument being used that where birds are thus fed they raise inferior squabs mainly on account of a lack of a regular feeding hour. When hoppers are used, not only will the parent birds lose their appetite, and the squabs in consequence suffer, but the grain (particularly the corn) cannot be kept fresh, resulting in sickness. The feed trough is preferable.

For drinking vessels, the two-gallon galvanized-iron fountains are best. That size is sufficient for a loft of fifty pairs of breeders.

Use of Nappies

Going back to the question of nests, some writers advocate the use ot nappies, using the argument that

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HOW TO DO THINGS
The Carneaux | Pigeons

they are better proof against the breeding of lice than the ordinary nest box. But other writers claim that they are a disadvantage, as only a small percentage of birds will use them unless forced to do so. They illustrate that if a nappy is placed in one nest, and the adjoining nest is empty, in nine cases out of ten the empty nest will be used first. Furthermore, when nappies are used, the death rate among the squabs is greatly increased, as the birds frequently crawl over the edges and become lodged behind, and as they have no way to extricate themselves, they finally perish. Another reason given is that where nappies are used there is a large percentage of weak-legged squabs. Lastly, they are very difficult to clean.

The Carneaux-a Coming Breed

On account of its wonderful qualities as a squab producer, the Carneaux is coming into more consideration. An interest being created, the breed has been carefully tested and proved to be good for the purpose intended.

As a squab producer the Carneaux has no superior, having the quality and capacity necessary to convert every ounce of grain possible into fat, juicy, solid flesh.

The skin color of the Carneaux squab is a beautiful yellow, several degrees lighter than the skin of Homer squabs. This makes it an ideal squab for market purposes, and it presents a handsome appearance when dressed.

When four weeks old the Carneaux will average, each, three to seven ounces heavier than Homer squabs of the same age, and when you stop to consider that the parents are only a trifle larger than Homers, it will give you an idea of this breed's adaptability for producing squabs.

A Coming Breed

The Carneaux is gentle and peaceful, not so nervous as the Homer. The birds are very active, full of life and fire, and can dance and strut the neatest of all pigeons. They are hardy and prolific and can stand a whole lot of abuse without a protest, and are not affected by captivity. If you prefer to let them fly at large, they will stay home even if in a new one.

From a fancier's standpoint they offer great possibilities, as the Belgian standard calls for a clear red, red-and-white splash, and red with white rosette on wings. To hold the beautiful shade of red, a sort of rufous red, not seen in any other bird, is a trick that can be made very interesting, especially so when taking into consideration the proud carriage, grace of movement, show of strength when on the wing, and slick, handsome appearance when bred right.

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HOW TO DO THINGS
Pigeons How to Handle

The origin of the Carneaux is very remote. Whoever originated the breed has done a good work for the squab producer. Being naturally of a domestic nature, and ready and continuous breeders, these birds may be called blessed by the squab-eating public. They are gradually taking the place that belongs to them of right, and in the near future may contend with the Homer for first place in public favor.

Hints on Handling

Some pigeons are more devoted to the young than others. It has been remarked that those birds with short beaks are generally least devoted.

All pigeons have in each wing ten strong feathers, counting from and including the outside ones, which are called "primaries," from being the first that shows in the wing of a bird, and called by pigeon fanciers "flight feathers." They are the strongest quilled and webbed, and do the greater part of the work in flying. Immediately following these are others not so strong in either quill or web, called "secondary" feathers.

Wing diseases may be cured, if taken in time, by plucking the flights and anointing the joint on the under side with turpentine. Wing disease in the pinion joints is difficult to cure.

Pop-corn is said to be better for pigeons than any other variety of corn.

Pigeons will not eat food that has been fouled, and they must have plenty of sand and gravel in the loft, as well as ground oyster shells.

To avoid shy pigeons you must be kind and careful of them, and enter the loft whistling a call of some kind to let them know you are coming; and always have a cup of grain to throw to them, that they may expect something each time you visit the loft, and thus get acquainted with your movements.

Never catch any bird in daytime unless absolutely necessary; this alone will make tame birds wild. If you wish a particular bird, wait until evening when they are roosting, when it is an easy matter to catch the one you want and place in a pen until the next morning, at which time you can make your examination and let it fly back with the rest of the birds.

Pigeons are often kept and do well in a box nailed on the side of a house or barn, and others have houses placed on poles. If either of these should be adopted, they should have a southern exposure, and the roof of the box should project over as far as possible, so as to shelter it from the rain and snow.

The pigeon loft should be well lighted. A dark room is not healthful, especially if the birds are not allowed to fly out. The loft should be well ventilated, but not by a direct draft through it.

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HOW TO DO THINGS
Squab Raising Pigeons

Points on Squab Raising

"The more one studies his pigeons, the more money will he get in return," says Edison W. Kain, in the Squab Magazine. "Go up and look into the breeding pen. Don't scare the birds. Look! See that big bird working away at his nest! Doesn't he look industrious? Watch him and see him quit and start to drive the first female that alights near him. Make a note of it--it means about six pairs of squabs at the end of the year. See that little bird working over in the corner? He stops for nothing. If he drops a stem he goes, back for another. He doesn't appear to notice anyone. Put him down for ten pairs."

"Solid colored birds are not particularly well adapted for squab-raising purposes," writes D. Russ Wood. This may appear peculiar to a beginner, nevertheless it is true. Size has been sacrificed for color In the breeding of solid-colored birds.

The Market Age

The weight of squabs varies from six to eighteen pounds to the dozen; nine pounds is a fair average. It requires from four to six weeks to bring squabs to marketable size. At this time the down disappears from the head and they are fully feathered under the wings. They should then be plump and heavy. When this period is passed their fat increases, the once-tender flesh becomes hard, and the birds, learning the use of their wings, will leave the nest.

Pigeons are at the most productive age between two and six years, but it is not impossible to have some do good work up until ten years old. Where It is intended to hold squabs as breeders they should be leg-banded before they are able to leave the nest and a record kept of their breeding. When it is possible to determine the sex the males should be banded on the right leg and the females on the left.

Do Not Feed Before Killing

Squabs intended for market should be caught before they are fed their morning meal, so that the crops will be empty. The method of killing, plucking and cooling is practically the same as employed with poultry. Never save poor, inferior squabs for breeding, as they will reduce the quality of the stock. Dispose of weak or inferior breeders, especially it they are males, as one always has a surplus of the latter.

The most precarious period Is when the birds are from four to eight weeks old. This is the time of the first molt.

When the birds look droopy and seem to lack in appetite, give them a physic. Put a tablespoonful of Epsom salts in their drinking water. Do this at night so they will get the full benefit in the morning.

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Two parts of corn to one part of cowpeas is a mixture that will make plump, fat squabs. One who has tried it says that his birds have never been in a healthier condition, nor produced better, than since he began feeding this mixture. This is one way of saving wheat, and apparently with as good results.