Tumbledown Farm .9 Acres (give or take an acre or two)

Excerpt: THE time for starting the hot-beds varies according to the ideas of the individual grower. There is no good reason except that of expense why crops should not be produced the year round without a break. It is doubtful whether mid-winter crops pay to produce except under special conditions, where manure can be obtained at a nominal price. A little con­sideration will make it apparent that the demand at such a time is very limited; whilst the quantity of fermenting material required to maintain a succession of hot-beds until mild weather makes them unnecessary is very great.

CHAPTER XIII
Crops on Hot-Beds Under Frames

THE time for starting the hot-beds varies according to the ideas of the individual grower. There is no good reason except that of expense why crops should not be produced the year round without a break. It is doubtful whether mid-winter crops pay to produce except under special conditions, where manure can be obtained at a nominal price. A little con­sideration will make it apparent that the demand at such a time is very limited; whilst the quantity of fermenting material required to maintain a succession of hot-beds until mild weather makes them unnecessary is very great.

In a small garden the best date to begin, for profit, is the middle of January, but where the operations are on a fairly extensive scale it is necessary to begin earlier than this, so as to get the routine of work well in hand. In the suggested plan of cropping the first hot-bed is begun on December 15.

The beds for frames are made first. Before the work is begun everything should be in readiness, with the frames and lights close at hand, so that the making of the beds can pro­ceed expeditiously when once begun. Having

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previously arranged the space and position the beds are to occupy, the prepared decayed manure or compost for topping the beds should have been laid on the ground in ridges running north and south, about 3ft. wide and 2ft. 6in. high, with 10ft. spaces between, each ridge coming opposite the center of the position to

be occupied by a three-light frame. These ridges should stop short 6ft. from the north end of the section, to leave room for making the first hot-bed. Extra soil is put at the south end of the ridges to afford sufficient to cover the last hot-bed. (See sketch.) If there is danger of a hard frost at this time, the whole of the section and the ridges of soil should be

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covered a few inches thick with strawy manure to keep the frost out of the ground and soil.

In beginning to make the bed lay on the ground, in the space left at the north end, two rows of manure-one of dry and one of fresh. This is shaken out, the two mixed well together, laid in position, and beaten down with the back of the fork. As the work proceeds the manure is trodden down firmly and evenly, and hollow places are leveled by laying in a little more manure. The earliest beds should be finished at about fifteen inches thick, but after the end of January twelve inches will be quite thick enough.

As soon as the first bed is finished, lay on the frames, straight and level, allowing the manure to project nine inches beyond them on the outsides of the beds. Set five frames in one row, end to end, all touching. Now throw inside the frames soil from the ridges, until there is a depth of about four inches on the manure, all over the inside of the frame. Rake well with a fine rake, removing all lumps (which can be thrown amongst the manure of the next bed); make all level, put on the lights, and cover with mats.

The work must be arranged so that any bed begun is finished and covered before being left at night. This is of special importance at this time of the year, when there may be frost or snow or rain for days together. If the beds are left uncovered they will be spoiled.

In two or three days the manure begins to

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ferment and get warm, as may be seen by the moisture on the glass. Then is the time to sow and plant. Take off the lights and sow the radish seed broadcast very thinly, all over the bed. After this, sow the forcing carrot seed, in exactly the same way and on the same bed. Cover with a thin layer of dry sifted compost and press evenly and firmly with the soil presser. Plant now on this same bed, eight inches apart, the forcing cabbage lettuce from under the cloches, with the plants of one row falling between those of the next, diagonally.

Use the strongest plants for the earliest beds. They must be carefully examined, all decayed leaves removed, and doubtful plants rejected.

The whole of the space intended for these early hot-beds must be covered, bed by bed, and sown and planted in the way described. This gives a regular succession.

The beds on one section are all joined together, so that one bed covers the whole space. This keeps the heat in better, and allows the frames to be set close together, ten inches only being allowed for walking space between two rows of frames.

When the beds are planted, fill up the path­ ways and outsides with littery manure, to the top of the frames. Cover the lights each night with mats.

When the radishes are up, give air by raising the lights slightly on the side opposite the wind.

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Look through the frames occasionally to clear the lettuce of decayed leaves. Tardy development of the radishes in the outer beds is due to the cooling of the manure. When this cooling occurs fresh manure must be put around and between the frames. If the radishes seem drawn, give a little more air, but remember that too much air is not good for the lettuce. Be careful to remove the mats early in the morning, and, unless a hard frost sets in, replace them only at nightfall.

If the beds are properly made and warm gathering of the radishes should begin in the fourth week after sowing, and all should be cleared from the beds within ten or twelve days following, as the lettuce will by that time be growing fast and will need all the space. When the radishes are cleared it will be seen that the carrots are up. Choose then a mild, dull day, and between I I and 12 o'clock lift off the lights and water the beds through a fine rose.

The lettuce should be ready for market about six weeks after planting. When it is gone, clean the beds well, removing weeds, leaves, and old roots, and thin the carrots, if too thick. Then plant the cauliflowers, four to each light, water well, put on the lights, and keep close for two or three days. The carrots will now need attention. They need plenty of air and water. Some growers spread fine soil amongst them, bringing it up to the collar of the plants. This keeps the top of


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the roots from becoming green. Increase air and water gradually, and as soon as the weather permits, raise the lights from the frame all around, so as to get a good current of air through. Do not cover at night unless the weather is severe. Never neglect watering, for the beds must not be dry at any time. As soon as the plants are well hardened the lights and frames may be removed altogether and taken to the section intended for melons.

The carrots should be ready for market by the end of March onward, according to the time the seed was sown. The pulling should begin at one end of the bed, which should be cleared as the pulling proceeds. Do not leave any small ones in the bed to get larger. If left, they will be in the way, and would pro­bably make useless fibrous roots. Those too small for the market should be thrown away.

When the carrots are gone hoe the bed all over and water it well. Watch the cauliflowers, and whenever a head appears cover with an old leaf to keep it clean and white. Water freely.

The cauliflowers should be ready for market early in June. Cut the largest as soon as ready. They need to be closely watched, for if overlooked one day they may be too forward the next.