Tumbledown Farm .9 Acres (give or take an acre or two)

Excerpt: IN forming a new garden there is much pre­paratory work to be done, and this should be done well in advance of seed-sowing, which begins in September. Therefore a good time to begin is in March or April.

CHAPTER X
Starting the Garden

IN forming a new garden there is much pre­paratory work to be done, and this should be done well in advance of seed-sowing, which begins in September. Therefore a good time to begin is in March or April.

Shed, stable, and fences should be erected, drainage attended to, and a water system installed. Then there are frames, lights, cloches, mats, and various tools and material to be collected, special soil or compost to be prepared, and stacks of dry manure to be accumulated. In addition to all this, the whole of the ground should be cleaned and dug over, and the beds intended for the produc­tion of open-air crops heavily manured and thoroughly worked.

If the garden is to be experimental and small, these elaborate preparations are unneces­sary. Whatever is the size of the garden, the ground should be divided into well-defined sections, as described in the chapter on plan­ning. This should be done very carefully.

Access to a main road for horse-vehicles should determine the position of the manure ground and of the packing-shed, with

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care taken that the latter is not in such a position as to obstruct the free play of sun­ shine on the garden. If it faces the south or west, it will protect the beds to some extent from north or east winds, and be much more comfortable in bad weather for the workers.

Shed and stables should be provided first of all, that they may afford convenient shelter for work in wet weather and be storage places for the material of the garden as it is acquired.

Attend next to the drainage. If there is any doubt about the efficacy of the natural drainage, do not hesitate to put in land drain­ pipes. Good crops may be obtained for some years on an undrained soil if, on the whole, the seasons are dry; but wet times are sure to come, and then an undrained garden will become a swamp and disaster will follow.

When the drains are completed, or while in progress, build a fence all round, six feet high, Joining up to the packing-shed, unless sufficient shelter is already in existence; even then it is wise to protect the garden from unprincipled persons. There are many suitable materials for fencing, but the cheapest will probably be creosoted posts and rails, with weather-boards put on upright, and dressed with Stockholm tar.

Next in order comes the watering arrange­ments. If good, the water may, for the sake of economy, be used direct from public mains, but it will be better if exposed first in a large open tank, for aeration. Do not be persuaded

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into using pipes that are too small. Read the chapter on water. See that the positions of hydrants or stand-pipes are accurately marked, and make sure that the pipe-fitter heeds them.

Whilst the pipe-laying is going on, get in the rotted manure for compost making. This compost is very important, for seedlings and plants will not give anything like such good results if the soil is not up to the mark. Set to work turning and breaking up the manure as soon as it is brought in. To get it into proper condition and thoroughly mixed, go over it several times.

Make arrangements, if possible, for regular supplies of manure the year round; when this cannot be done arrange to get it in the quantities and at the times given in the chapter on manure. The dates and quantities may be varied according to circumstances, but in every alteration be before, not after, the times given.

Order frames and lights early, especially if painting and glazing are to be done at home, so as to have indoor work for wet weather. Order cloches not later than June, that no rush of orders may prevent their being delivered in good time; if they are not at hand when wanted for seedlings in the autumn it would prove very serious.

Whilst the foregoing work is in progress, the ground must have unremitting attention. Remember, intensive culture is gardening done on scientific principles, to secure from the ground the utmost in the shortest possible

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time; this cannot be accomplished unless all the preparatory work is thoroughly done and the foundations are rightly laid. There is no room for weeds in a French garden. Doubt­less a few annual weeds will appear here and there during the growing season, but these can be easily removed. Perennial weeds, such as dock, thistles, dandelion, twitch, and the like must be completely exterminated while the ground is in preparation.

The open-air beds must be heavily manured. The soil of a French garden, brought to its high state of productivity, consists almost entirely of the decayed vegetable matter which once was stable manure. While it is impos­sible to bring the ground into this condition before several years have passed, care should be taken that there shall be no unnecessary delay.

Bastard trench the ground and place a heavy dressing of short manure between the top and bottom spits. After the soil has been weathered a little, spread three inches of short manure over the top and point this in, mixing it thoroughly with the top soil. This work will probably not all be done during the summer, but the sections intended for hardy winter cabbage lettuce must be finished first, so as to be ready for the planting in October. Those sections intended for cloches and frames, to protect plants through the winter, come next; and after this the sections for cold frames.

If the ground is old pasture, search carefully

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for wireworm; if the soil is infested with this pest it is imperative that the top four inches of turf should be skimmed off and burnt. This is a troublesome matter, put should on no account be omitted or serious losses will result for several years. Do not place entire depen­dence upon advertised specifics for wireworm, as these frequently fail to destroy them.