Chapter VI: Frames and Lights


Excerpt: It will be seen that this frame is very shallow, and very little higher at the back than the front. This design is the outcome of generations of experience. All obstructions to light are eliminated as far as possible; the plants are grown near the glass, and conse­quently they become as sturdy as when grown in the open.



CHAPTER VI
Frames and Lights

THE frames and lights are of special con­struction--as are all the appliances used in the French garden.

Each frame is made to accommodate three lights. The outside measurements are 13ft. long by 4ft. 5in. wide, 9in. high at the back and 7in. at the front. Yellow pine boards, 1 1/4in. thick, are used. At each corner of the frame, inside, is an oak leg, 3in. by 3in., which projects below the bottom 1 1/2in. and is 1/2in. below the top. The front legs are, therefore, 8in. and the back ones 10in. long. The end and side boards are nailed to these legs. When the frame is finished, the top should be true and level, so that when lights are on there are no spaces for drafts to blow in or heat to escape.

The leg is fixed 1/2in. below the level of the top of the frame for a good reason. When the frames are not in use they are stacked away, one on top of the other; and as the bottom of the legs of one frame rest on the top of those of another, they are kept rigidly in position,

24 French Gardening

because they sink 1/2in. inside the top of the frame below. (See illustration.)



The frames are divided into three compart­ments by two bars of "T" iron. The stem of the "T," which is nearer one side than the other, is separated from top, 2in. from the end, and both top and stem are then turned at right angles to form a clip which fits on top of frame boards, being sunk just the thickness of the iron, so that all comes flush. (See illus­tration.)

It will be seen that this frame is very shallow, and very little higher at the back than the front. This design is the outcome of generations of experience. All obstructions to light are eliminated as far as possible; the plants are grown near the glass, and conse­quently they become as sturdy as when grown in the open.

As the plants grow and are in danger of touching the glass, the frames are raised from the bed a little at a time, with hooks made for the purpose. A tight wad of manure is placed under each leg to give it a solid base


Frames and Lights 25

to rest upon, and the space between bottom of frame and bed is filled with littery manure.

Six iron clips are fixed to the top of the front board of the frame, two for each light. The purpose of these is to hold the light from slipping, when held up at the back while attending to the plants. All work in the frames is done from the back whilst the lights are on. (See illustration.)




To preserve the frames, dress the wood with Stockholm tar, applied hot. Or limewash put on hot will be found very effective, especially if renewed each season. Linseed oil paint may be used, but this is rather expensive where there are a large number. On no account use creosote, gas-tar, or any of the "stop-rot" pre­parations, or the plants will be seriously injured by the fumes which arise when the sun is shining.

The lights are 53in. deep by 52in. wide; the top rails and styles are 2in. by 2in., and the bottom rail 2 1/2in. by 1 1/2in. The horns project only half an inch, so as not to interfere with the path between the frames.

At the top and bottom of each light, on the surface, 1in. from the edge, is a drop handle, which lies flat on the light when not in use.

Each light will take twelve panes of glass, 12in. wide, 17in. deep, 1/2in. overlap, with top putty. Three "T" iron sash-bars are used to

26 French Gardening

each light. These bars, being thinner than wooden ones, admit more light. They last much longer, and with top putty there is less tendency to drip.

Persons desiring to do French gardening on a small scale need not necessarily use these special lights; those of French design are better than ordinary ones, because they admit more light; but where expense must be con­sidered, ordinary garden lights can be made to answer very well if fitted upon shallow frames, like those described.

Three lights go to each frame. When in position they touch, there being no dividing rail. The frames also are set touching each other, five frames, or fifteen lights, in a row. These rows may be continued behind each other, 10in. apart, to any extent desired; but it is advisable, for convenience of access to all parts of the garden, to leave a 3 ft. path between each set of, at most, twenty rows.

In the plan given such a path is put between each ten rows.

It is necessary to set the frames on the beds straight in line, square and level. Unless this is done not only is the effect slovenly, but the frame cannot be kept in its proper space. It is really very little more trouble to do this as it ought to be done than to do it carelessly. A fairly true eye, a garden line, and a marked rod are all the tools necessary.

A prop of wood is used to hold open the light when air is given. A convenient size

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for this is 2in. by 1in. by 10in., with a rebate at one end, 2in. by 1in. One of these props is used with every light. Different width of air-space is given according to the way it is put under the light.






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